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Healthy Lawn Care Tips
EARLY SPRING LAWN CARE
- Keep off the lawn in the spring until the ground has dried and is
firm to walk on.
- Rake up debris, dead grass, leaves, etc.
- Roll "frost bumps" with a light roller.
- Aerate the lawn annually in high traffic area, every other year usually
sufficient in low use areas.
- Apply a premium slow release lawn fertilizer.
- If crabgrass was a problem last year apply a premium slow release
lawn fertilizer with a crabgrass preventer*.
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LATE SPRING
- Apply grass seed to repair damaged areas or thicken existing lawn*
- Apply a premium slow release lawn fertilizer.
- Following mowing suggestions listed below.
- If lawn weeds are a problem see FAQ's Page
SUMMER LAWN CARE
- Following watering and mowing suggestions listed below.
- Apply a premium slow release lawn fertilizer.
- If insects are a problem see FAQ's
Page
FALL LAWN CARE
- Fall is the best time to apply grass seed to repair damaged areas
or thicken existing lawn*
- Following watering and mowing suggestions listed below.
- Apply a premium winterizing fertilizer.
- If lawn weeds are a problem see FAQ's Page
*Grass seed germination is not compatible with weed control products
used on lawns. They cannot be applied with in 6 week of each other. As
a general rule - seed in the spring and weed in the fall or weed in the
spring and seed in the fall.
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WATERING
- Most lawns require a minimum of 2.5cm (1") of water per
week during the summer.
- In dry conditions, water heavily once a week as opposed to a daily
sprinkling (daily sprinkling encourages shallow roots, which will increase
the chance of burn during hot spells)
- Try to wet the entire root zone.
- Do not water at night – the chance of fungus developing
is increased.
- Use a rain gauge or aluminum pie plate to measure if the correct
amount of water is being applied.
MOWING
- Ensure mower blade is sharp to prevent frayed appearance.
- Mow to 5cm to 7.5cm (2"-3") in spring and fall
- Raise mower another 1cm (½") during hot weather to
improve drought resistance.
- Never remove more than 1/3rd of the grass blade at one mowing.
- Change direction of the cut each time to keep coarse grasses under
control and ensure an even surface.
AERATION
- Dethatching is no longer a recommended practice on home lawns.
It creates openings for weed germination and causes stress to the existing
turf. Aeration is now recommended for decreasing thatch as well as compaction.
- Aeration will increase the amount of air, water and nutrients
getting to the soil, which will strengthen grass roots and help create a healthier
lawn.
- Aeration should be done annually in high traffic areas.
- Aeration before an application of fertilizer will allow nutrients
easier access to root systems.
FERTILIZER APPLICATION
- Read the complete label before using.
- Remove debris, toys, etc from the lawn.
- Use a good broadcast spreader with an accurate flow setting.
- Wash and lubricate spreader after use.
- Fill the spreader on the drive or walk and not on the lawn.
- Sweep up spilt fertilizer.
- Shut off the spreader when stopping or turning.
- Apply half of the required fertilizer in one direction on the
lawn (i.e. north/south). Apply the remaining fertilizer across the lawn (i.e.
east/west). This will help to provide even coverage and prevent streaking
from missed spots and overlap.
- Do not apply Weed & Feed when rain is expected.
- Do not water the lawn for 48 hours after applying Weed & Feed
- Store any remaining fertilizer in a cool dry place.
- Wash after using fertilizer.
HOW TO CALIBRATE YOUR FERTILIZER SPREADER
If your spreader's setting is not listed on the bag, you
can determine which setting to use by conducting this simple test:
- Read all directions and precautions on the bag.
- Weigh out enough of the fertilizer to cover 100 m2 and
put it in the spreader. (Bathroom scales will help you do this)
- Set your spreader on a low setting. (Usually one quarter of the way
open is a good starting point.)
- Spread the material you put in the spreader over 100 m2
(10m x 10m) [1076 sq. ft (33 ft x 33 ft)].
- Ideally the product will run out when you get to the end of the 100 m2
area. If you have a little left over. Increase the setting slightly.
If you don't have enough to cover the full 100 m2, reduce
the setting slightly.
- Write the setting and product name on a piece of tape and apply to
the spreader for future reference.
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SOIL pH OR ACIDITY
Soil pH is defined as "potential hydrogen" but a more accurate
description is "hydrogen ion concentration". It is a scale used
to measure the acidity or alkalinity of soil. Soil amendments such as lime,
gypsum and sulphur in conjunction with fertilization are typically used to help
adjust pH of soil.
In general, a pH of 7.0 (neutral) is most desirable for overall nutrient availability.
A low pH (acidic soils) can be corrected using a lime. A high pH (alkaline soils)
can usually be corrected by adding sulphur or ammonium or other acidifiers like
aluminum sulphate. Remember that a soil pH of 5.0 is ten times more acidic than
a soil with a pH of 6.0.
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